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Dynamics Of Fashion

por Stone, Elaine

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Formato: Tapa dura (Hardcover)
Editorial: Fairchild Books
Año de Edición: 2008/07/16
Tema: BUSINESS & ECONOMICS / Industries / Fashion & Textile Industry, DESIGN / Fashion
Idioma: Inglés
Páginas: 640
Peso: 2760.32 gramos
Estado: Nuevo
ISBN 13: 9781563676864
Precio: US$ 112,30
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Resumen del libro
Publisher Summary 1
Presents the foundation for a wide range of careers in the fashion business. Incorporating the experience of the author and her earlier editions of "Dynamics of Fashion", this book covers product development, home fashions, retailing strategies, and examines how communication trends and technological advances impact the fashion world.
 


Tabla de Contenidos del libro
Preface xv
Unit One The Changing World of Fashion
2(138)
A Century of Fashion
4(34)
Social and Cultural Conditions
6(1)
Fashion Trends and Developments
7(1)
Designers and Other Influences
7(1)
Prelude to the 20th Century
8(1)
Social and Cultural Conditions
8(1)
Fashion Trends and Developments
8(1)
Designers and Other Influences
9(1)
The 1900s: The Beautiful Age
10(1)
Social and Cultural Conditions
10(1)
Fashion Trends and Developments
10(1)
Designers and Other Influences
11(1)
The 1905s: New Fashions Take Hold
12(1)
Social and Cultural Conditions
12(1)
Fashion Trends and Developments
12(1)
Designers and Other Influences
12(2)
The 1920s: Fashion Gets Modern
14(1)
Social and Cultural Conditions
14(1)
Fashion Trends and Developments
14(1)
Designers and Other Influences
14(2)
The 1930s: Making Do
16(1)
Social and Cultural Conditions
16(1)
Fashion Trends and Developments
16(1)
Designers and Other Influences
16(2)
The 1940s: War and Duty
18(1)
Social and Cultural Conditions
18(1)
Fashion Trends and Developments
18(1)
Designers and Other Influences
18(2)
The 1950s: New Prosperity
20(1)
Social and Cultural Conditions
20(1)
Fashion Trends and Developments
20(1)
Designers and Other Influences
20(2)
The 19605: Times Are A-Changing
22(1)
Social and Cultural Conditions
22(1)
Fashion Trends and Developments
22(1)
Designers and Other Influences
23(1)
The 1970s: Fashion and the ``Me'' Decade
24(1)
Social and Cultural Conditions
24(1)
Fashion Trends and Developments
24(1)
Designers and Other Influences
24(4)
The 1980s: Pop Culture and Excess
28(1)
Social and Cultural Conditions
28(1)
Fashion Trends and Developments
28(1)
Designers and Other Influences
29(1)
The 1990s: Fashion in the Information Age
30(1)
Social and Cultural Conditions
30(1)
Fashion Trends and Developments
30(1)
Designers and Other Influences
30(2)
The 20005: Into The 21st Century
32(1)
Social and Cultural Conditions
32(1)
Fashion Trends and Developments
32(1)
Designers and Other Influences
33(1)
Summary and Review
34(4)
The Nature of Fashion
38(28)
The Importance of Fashion
40(1)
The Fashion Business
41(1)
Marketing
41(1)
Fashion Marketing and Merchandising
41(1)
Misconceptions about Fashion
42(1)
The Terminology of Fashion
43(5)
Style
43(1)
Fashion
43(1)
Design
44(1)
Taste
44(1)
A Classic
45(1)
A Fad
46(1)
A Trend
47(1)
Components of Fashion
48(3)
Silhouette
48(1)
Details
48(1)
Texture
48(1)
Color
49(2)
The Fashion Cycle
51(6)
Stages of the Fashion Cycle
52(1)
Lengths of Cycles
53(2)
Breaks in the Cycle
55(1)
Long-Run and Short-Run Fashions
55(1)
Consumer Buying and the Fashion Cycle
55(2)
The Intangibles of Fashion
57(4)
Group Acceptance
57(1)
Change
58(2)
A Mirror of the Times
60(1)
Principles of Fashion
61(3)
Summary and Review
64(2)
The Environment of Fashion
66(24)
Market Segmentation
68(3)
Geographics
69(1)
Demographics
69(1)
Psychographics
69(1)
Behavior
70(1)
The Economic Environment
71(5)
Consumer Income
73(2)
Population
75(1)
The Sociological Environment
76(11)
Leisure Time
77(3)
Ethnic Influences
80(1)
Status of Women
81(3)
Social Mobility
84(1)
Physical Mobility
85(1)
Faster Communications
85(1)
War, Disaster, and Crisis
86(1)
The Psychological Environment
87(1)
Summary and Review
88(2)
The Movement of Fashion
90(28)
Factors Influencing Fashion Movement
92(7)
Accelerating Factors
92(2)
Retarding Factors
94(3)
Recurring Fashions
97(2)
Playing the Apparel Fashion Game
99(2)
Pieces of the Game
100(1)
Rules of the Game
101(1)
Predicting the Movement of Fashion
101(4)
Identifying Trends
102(1)
Sources of Data
102(1)
Interpreting Infuential Factors
102(3)
Importance of Timing
105(1)
Theories of Fashion Adoption
105(4)
Downward-Flow Theory
106(1)
Horizontal-Flow Theory
106(2)
Upward-Flow Theory
108(1)
Fashion Leaders
109(4)
Innovators and Influentials
109(1)
Royalty
110(1)
The Rich
110(1)
The Famous
111(2)
Athletes
113(1)
Fashion Followers
113(1)
Reasons for Following Fashion
113(1)
Fashion as an Expression of Individuality
114(2)
The Paradox of Conformity and Individuality
115(1)
Fashion and Self-Expression
116(1)
Summary and Review
116(2)
The Business of Fashion
118(22)
Economic Importance of the Fashion Business
120(1)
Scope of the Fashion Business
120(2)
The Primary Level
120(1)
The Secondary Level
121(1)
The Retail Level
121(1)
The Auxiliary Level
121(1)
Diversity and Competition
122(2)
Competition and Price
123(1)
Competition and Quality
123(1)
Competition and Innovation
124(1)
Government Regulation of Business
124(1)
Forms of Business Ownership
124(1)
Business Growth and Expansion
124(6)
Internal Growth
124(3)
Mergers and Acquisitions
127(1)
The Franchise
128(1)
Licensing
129(1)
Birth of a Fashion
130(1)
The Designer's Role
131(2)
Types of Designers
132(1)
Insight and Intuition
132(1)
Sources of Design Inspiration
132(1)
The Manufacturer's Role
133(3)
Types of Manufacturers
135(1)
The Retailer's Role
136(2)
Types of Retailers
136(1)
Fashion Influence
137(1)
Summary and Review
138(2)
Unit Two The Primary Level: The Materials of Fashion
140(58)
Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics
142(30)
The Fiber Industry
144(1)
History and Development
144(8)
The Development of Natural Fibers
144(3)
The Development of Manufactured Fibers
147(5)
Organization and Operation
152(2)
The Natural Fiber Industry
152(1)
The Manufactured Fiber Industry
152(2)
Merchandising and Marketing
154(3)
Advertising and Publicity
154(1)
Research and Development
155(2)
Customer Services
157(1)
Trends in the Fiber Industry
157(1)
The Textile Fabric Industry
158(1)
History and Development
158(1)
Organization and Operation
159(2)
Types of Mills
160(1)
The Converter
160(1)
Merchandising and Marketing
161(3)
The Industry's Fashion Experts
161(1)
Textile Trade Shows and Fairs
161(1)
Advertising and Publicity
162(1)
Research and Development
162(1)
The Green Scene
163(1)
Customer Services
164(1)
Trends in the Textile Fabric Industry
164(6)
Production of High-Tech Fabrics
165(1)
Growing Global Competition
166(1)
Increasing Exports
167(1)
Greater Diversification of Products
168(1)
Increased Government Regulation
169(1)
New Technology in Equipment
169(1)
Summary and Review
170(2)
Leather and Fur
172(26)
The Leather Industry
174(1)
History and Development
174(1)
Organization and Operation
175(3)
Categories of Leather
176(1)
Leather Processing
176(2)
Merchandising and Marketing
178(2)
Fashion Information Services
178(1)
Trade Associations and Trade Shows
179(1)
Research and Development
180(1)
Trends in the Leather Industry
180(4)
Enlarging Markets
180(1)
Increased Competition from Synthetics
181(2)
Increased Foreign Trade
183(1)
Industry Growth Factors
183(1)
The Fur Industry
184(1)
History and Development
184(5)
Animal Rights Groups
187(1)
Manufactured Furs
188(1)
Real Fur versus Fake Fur
188(1)
Organization and Operation
189(3)
Pelt Production
189(1)
Fur Auctions
189(2)
Fur Processing
191(1)
Fur Manufacturing
191(1)
Retail Distribution of Furs
192(1)
Merchandising and Marketing
193(1)
Trade Associations
193(1)
International Fur Fairs
193(1)
Labeling
194(1)
Trends in the Fur Industry
194(2)
Renewed Fashion Interest
194(2)
Increased Foreign Trade
196(1)
New Legislation
196(1)
New Channels of Retail Distribution
196(1)
Summary and Review
196(2)
Unit Three The Secondary Level: The Producers of Apparel
198(108)
Product Development
200(30)
What Is a Product Line, and Who Develops It?
202(4)
Role of the Merchandiser
204(1)
Role of the Designer
204(1)
Role of the Producer
205(1)
The Product Development Process
206(7)
Planning a Line
207(1)
Creating the Design Concept
208(1)
Developing the Designs
208(1)
Planning Production
209(1)
Production
210(1)
Distributing the Line
211(2)
Specializing by Product
213(3)
By Gender, Age, and Size Categories, and by Classification
213(1)
Brands and Labels
214(2)
Industry Practices
216(4)
Manufacturers Acting as Retailers
216(1)
Licensing
217(2)
Private Label and Specification Buying
219(1)
Offshore Production
220(1)
Use of Factors
220(1)
Chargebacks
220(1)
Advanced Technologies and Strategies
220(4)
Computer-Integrated Manufacturing
221(1)
Quick Response
221(1)
Bar Codes and Scanners
222(1)
Electronic Data Interchange (EDI)
222(1)
Mass Customization
223(1)
Body Scanning
223(1)
Industry Trends
224(4)
Brand Extensions
224(2)
Industry Cooperation
226(1)
Globalization
226(2)
Summary and Review
228(2)
Women's Apparel
230(26)
History of the Women's Apparel Industry
232(3)
Growth of Ready-to-Wear
232(1)
Acceptance of Ready-to-Wear in the 20th Century
232(1)
Growth of the Fashion District
233(2)
Organization and Operation of the Women's Apparel Industry
235(13)
Size of Producers
235(1)
Specialization by Product
235(1)
The Role of Designers
236(1)
Categories in Women's Apparel
236(5)
Size Ranges
241(3)
Wholesale Price Points
244(3)
Seasonal Classifications
247(1)
Merchandising and Marketing
248(4)
Advertising
248(2)
Publicity
250(1)
Fashion Shows, Press Weeks, and Trade Shows
250(1)
Trunk Shows
251(1)
DVDs and CD-ROMS
251(1)
Promotion Aids
252(1)
Industry Trends
252(3)
Manufacturers as Retailers
252(1)
Licensing
253(1)
Offshore Production
253(1)
Increased Emphasis on Quick Response
254(1)
Use of Computers and the Internet
254(1)
Summary and Review
255(1)
Men's Apparel
256(26)
History of the Men's Apparel Industry
258(1)
Birth of Ready-to-Wear
258(8)
Role of the Industrial Revolution
258(1)
Mid- to Late 1800s
259(2)
Acceptance of Ready-to-Wear in the 20th Century
261(2)
The Last Decades of the 20th Century
263(3)
Organization and Operation of the Industry
266(9)
Size and Location of Manufacturers
267(1)
Dual Distribution
268(1)
Designing a Line
268(4)
Market Segments
272(3)
Merchandising and Marketing
275(2)
Advertising
275(1)
Publicity in Newspapers and Magazines
275(1)
Trade Associations
276(1)
Industry Trends
277(5)
Trends in Production
277(1)
Increased Automation
277(1)
Foreign Production and Imports
278(1)
Specialty Trends in Retailing
278(1)
Style and Lifestyle
279(1)
Summary and Review
280(2)
Children's and Teens' Apparel
282(24)
Psychological Importance of Children's, Tweens', and Teens' Clothes
284(1)
Demographics and the Children's, Tweens', and Teens' Apparel Industry
284(2)
History of the Children's Apparel Industry
286(1)
Organization and Operation of the Children's, Tweens', and Teens' Apparel Industry
287(3)
Size Categories
288(1)
Special Features of Infants' and Toddlers' Wear
288(1)
Product Specialization
289(1)
The Role of Fashion in Children's Wear
290(1)
The Role of Fashion in Teens' and Tweens', Wear
291(1)
Merchandising and Marketing
292(5)
Market Centers
293(1)
Trade Shows
293(2)
Designer Labels
295(1)
Licensing
296(1)
Industry Trends
297(7)
Price Lines
299(1)
Offshore Production
299(1)
Specialty Retail Outlets
300(1)
Resale of Children's Wear
301(2)
School Uniforms
303(1)
Summary and Review
304(2)
Unit Four The Secondary Level: The Other Producers
306(122)
Innerwear, Bodywear, Legwear
308(26)
An Overview of the Underwear and Innerwear Industries
310(1)
Innerwear or Intimate Apparel
310(12)
History and Development
310(3)
Categories of Intimate Apparel
313(4)
Market Centers
317(1)
Merchandising and Marketing
318(1)
Market Segments
319(1)
Industry Trends
319(3)
Men's and Children's Underwear and Sleepwear
322(3)
Men's and Children's Underwear
323(2)
Men's and Children's Pajamas and Robes
325(1)
Bodywear
325(7)
Legwear
326(3)
Organization and Operation
329(1)
Merchandising and Marketing
329(1)
Industry Trends
330(2)
Summary and Review
332(2)
Accessories
334(34)
Footwear
336(6)
Organization and Operation
336(4)
Merchandising and Marketing
340(1)
Industry Trends
341(1)
Handbags
342(4)
Organization and Operation
343(3)
Merchandising and Marketing
346(1)
Industry Trends
346(1)
Belts
346(1)
Gloves
347(3)
Organization and Operation
349(1)
Merchandising and Marketing
349(1)
Industry Trends
350(1)
Millinery
350(2)
Neckwear
352(1)
Eyewear
353(2)
Jewelry
355(9)
Organization and Operation
355(7)
Merchandising and Marketing
362(1)
Industry Trends
363(1)
Other Accessories
364(1)
Trends in the Fashion Accessories Industries
365(1)
Market Weeks and Trade Shows
365(1)
Retailing Accessories
365(1)
Summary and Review
366(2)
Cosmetics and Fragrances
368(32)
History and Development of the Cosmetics and Fragrance Industry
370(3)
Dreams Versus Science
370(2)
Legends Versus the New Entrepreneurs
372(1)
Organization and Operation of the Industry
373(13)
A Global Business
375(1)
The Main Categories
375(5)
Private-Label Manufacturers
380(1)
Copycat Scents
381(2)
Federal Laws
383(1)
Environmental Concerns
384(2)
Market Segments
386(5)
The Male Market
386(1)
The Teen Market
387(1)
The Children's Market
388(1)
The Ethnic Market
388(2)
The Home Fragrances Market
390(1)
The Export Market
390(1)
Merchandising and Marketing
391(3)
Distribution
391(2)
Advertising and Sales Promotion
393(1)
Trade Associations, Shows, and Publications
394(1)
Industry Trends
395(3)
Antiaging Products
395(1)
Antibacterial and Antiallergenic Products
396(1)
Aromatherapy Products
396(1)
Spa Products
396(1)
Individualized Products
397(1)
Reflections of Trends
398(1)
Summary and Review
398(2)
Home Fashions
400(28)
History of the Home Furnishings Industries
402(1)
The Role of Linen
402(1)
The Evolution of Global Home Fashions
403(1)
Organization and Operation of the Industries
403(6)
Size and Location of Soft Goods Manufacturers
403(1)
Size and Location of Tabletop Manufacturers
404(1)
Licensing
404(1)
Designing a Soft Goods Line
405(2)
Designing a Tabletop Line
407(2)
Product Categories of Selected Soft Goods
409(7)
Bed Linens
410(1)
Bath Linens
411(1)
Table Linens
412(1)
Window Treatments
412(1)
Upholstery Fabric
413(1)
Miscellaneous Soft Goods
413(1)
Area Rugs
413(3)
Product Categories of Selected Tabletop Goods
416(4)
Dinnerware
416(1)
Glassware
417(1)
Flatware
418(1)
Hollowware
419(1)
Giftware
419(1)
Market Segments
420(1)
Bridal
420(1)
New Home/Vacation Home
421(1)
Replacement
421(1)
Market Resources
421(1)
Trade Associations
421(1)
Trade Shows
422(1)
Trade Publications
422(1)
Merchandising and Marketing
422(2)
Retail Channels of Distribution
423(1)
Advertising and Publicity
424(1)
Industry Trends
424(2)
Growing Fashion Influence
424(1)
Increased Automation in Design and Production
425(1)
Growth of Exports
425(1)
Increased Use of High-Tech Fabrics
425(1)
Increased Awareness of Ecological Issues
426(1)
Summary and Review
426(2)
Unit Five The Retail Level: The Markets for Fashion
428(102)
Global Fashion Markets
430(30)
Market Terminology
432(2)
Market
432(1)
Market Center
432(1)
Mart
432(1)
Market Weeks
433(1)
Trade Shows
434(1)
History and Development of Market Centers in the United States
434(1)
The Role of Sales Representatives
434(1)
The Role of Marts
434(1)
Services of Market Centers and Marts
435(1)
Physical Facilities
435(1)
Publicity
435(1)
Special Services for Market Week
436(1)
Information Services
436(1)
Educational Services
436(1)
General Services
436(1)
The New York Market
436(3)
Trading Area and Economic Impact
436(1)
Advantages of the New York Market
437(1)
Disadvantages of the New York Market
438(1)
The Regional Market Centers
439(1)
The Los Angeles Market
439(1)
The Dallas Market
439(1)
The Miami Market
440(1)
The Regional Marts
440(1)
Trade Shows in the United States
440(1)
Foreign Fashion Markets
441(16)
France
442(4)
Italy
446(3)
Great Britain
449(1)
Canada
450(1)
Other European Countries
451(1)
Mexico and South America
452(1)
The Far East
453(4)
Trends in Global Fashion Markets
457(1)
Summary and Review
458(2)
Global Sourcing and Merchandising
460(22)
Importing by Retailers
463(2)
American Buyers' Visits to International Fashion Markets
464(1)
Store-Owned Foreign Buying Offices
464(1)
Foreign Commissionaires or Agents
464(1)
Foreign Import Fairs in the United States
464(1)
American Importers
465(1)
Importing by Manufacturers
465(1)
Product Development: Specification and Private-Label Buying
466(1)
International Balance of Trade
467(3)
Protectionism
470(1)
Free Trade
470(1)
International Trading Laws
470(2)
General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT) and World Trade Organization (WTO)
471(1)
Multi-Fiber and Textile Agreement (MFA)
471(1)
U.S. Regulation of Textile and Apparel Imports
472(2)
Import Quotas
472(1)
Taxes: Tariffs and Duties
472(1)
Antisweatshop Commitments
472(1)
Counterfeit, Black Market, and Gray Market Goods
473(1)
Preferential Programs
474(4)
Most-Favored Nations
475(1)
Tariff Schedules 807 (9802) and 807A
475(1)
Caribbean Basin Initiative (CBI)
475(1)
North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA)
475(2)
Central American Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA)
477(1)
Penetration of the U.S. Market by Foreign Investors
478(1)
Licensing
478(1)
Penetration of Foreign Market by U.S. Companies
478(1)
Licensing
479(1)
Joint Ownership
479(1)
U.S. Exporting
479(1)
Summary and Review
480(2)
Fashion Retailing
482(26)
History and Development of Fashion Retailing
484(11)
General Stores
485(1)
Peddlers
486(1)
Moil-Order Sellers
486(1)
Traditional Types of Fashion Retailers
487(1)
Department Stores
487(2)
Specialty Stores
489(3)
Discount Stores
492(3)
Forms of Ownership
495(2)
Sole Proprietors
495(1)
Chain Organizations
496(1)
Leased Departments
497(1)
Franchises
497(1)
Other Types of Fashion Retailers Today
497(1)
Off-Price Retailers
498(7)
Factory Outlet Stores
499(1)
Category Killers
500(1)
Boutiques/Showcase Stores
500(2)
Nonstore Retailers
502(1)
Direct Selling
502(1)
Catalog Retailers
502(1)
TV Home Shopping
503(1)
Internet Shopping Sites
504(1)
Mergers and Acquisitions
505(1)
Merging for Efficiency and Expansion
505(1)
Trends: Changing Retail Patterns
506(1)
Summary and Review
507(1)
Policies and Strategies in Fashion Retailing
508(22)
Merchandising Policies
510(3)
Fashion Cycle Emphasis
510(1)
Quality
511(1)
Price Ranges
511(1)
Depth and Breadth of Assortments
512(1)
Brand Policies
512(1)
Exclusivity
513(1)
Operational Store Policies
513(6)
Ambiance
514(1)
Customer Services
515(1)
Selling Services
515(2)
Promotional Activities
517(1)
Frequent Shopper Plans
518(1)
Location Policies
519(1)
Shopping Centers and Malls
519(5)
Larger Malls
521(1)
Air Malls
522(1)
Lifestyle Retail Centers
523(1)
Resort Retailing
523(1)
Carts and Kiosks
523(1)
Temporary Sites: Pop-Up Stores
524(1)
Emerging Retail Strategies
524(1)
Responding to the Customers' Desire for Convenience
524(1)
Responding to the Decline of Customer Loyalty
525(1)
Responding to Customers' Complaints About Sameness
525(1)
Responding to the High Cost of Product Development by Forging Strategic Alliances
525(1)
Trends in Retail Policies
526(3)
Using New Technology
526(2)
Creating New Job Opportunities
528(1)
Summary and Review
529(1)
Unit Six The Auxiliary Level: Supporting Services
530(29)
Fashion Auxiliary Services
532(27)
Fashion Auxiliary Services Offered by the Media
534(11)
Fashion Magazines
535(2)
General Consumer Publications
537(1)
Trade Publications
538(2)
The Broadcast Media
540(5)
Advertising, Publicity, & Public Relations Agencies
545(3)
Advertising Agencies
547(1)
Public Relations Agencies
548(1)
Other Advertising and Public Relations Services
548(1)
Store Design and Visual Merchandising Services
548(4)
Store Design
549(1)
Visual Merchandising
550(2)
Information Resources
552(2)
Fashion Consultants and Information Services
552(1)
Market Research Agencies
553(1)
Trade Associations and Trade Shows
553(1)
Buying, Merchandising, and Product Development Organizations
554(2)
Location
554(1)
Types of Ownership
555(1)
Functions of Buying, Merchandising, and Product Development Organization
556(1)
Summary and Review
556(3)
My Top 100 Designers 559(4)
Glossary 563(12)
References 575(14)
Credit list 589(6)
Index 595


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