| Preface |
|
9 | (10) |
| Acknowledgments |
|
10 | (2) |
| Introduction Where we are, and how we got here |
|
12 | (1) |
|
On the subject of time, and having enough of it |
|
|
13 | (1) |
|
Notes to the novice, the proficient, and the general reader |
|
|
14 | (1) |
|
On equipment: guidance, and a caveat to builders |
|
|
15 | (1) |
|
Why you may want to read further |
|
|
16 | (1) |
|
In which we examine the origins of spinning, discover the power of twist, encounter the three defining qualities of any yarn, and ask ``Why spins today?'' |
|
|
17 | (9) |
|
Spinning at its most basic: drafting and twisting, grist and fiber |
|
|
18 | (5) |
|
Why does anybody spin today? |
|
|
23 | (3) |
|
Introductions to the basic concepts behind fiber, the Big Four fibers for handspinners (wool, cottons, flax, and silk), fiber preparation (carding and combing), and spinning methods (woolen and worsted) |
|
|
26 | (17) |
|
|
|
26 | (9) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Introduction to flax and linen |
|
|
|
Fiber preparation in general |
|
|
35 | (6) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
An introduction to woolen and worsted spinning methods |
|
|
41 | (2) |
|
First encounters: Wool and the spinning wheel |
|
|
43 | (44) |
|
Grease wool, and why you want to wash before spinning |
|
|
44 | (2) |
|
|
|
46 | (16) |
|
Better living through chemistry? |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Wool-scouring teaches basic principles |
|
|
62 | (1) |
|
Arranging for orderly fibers: Start with carding |
|
|
63 | (9) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
72 | (1) |
|
|
|
73 | (4) |
|
Manual and driven spindles, including simple spinning wheels |
|
|
|
Flyer-and-bobbin spinning wheels |
|
|
|
Spinning your first yarn on a wheel |
|
|
77 | (10) |
|
Determining the character of yarn: Grist, twist, fiber, and spinning method |
|
|
87 | (39) |
|
|
|
88 | (13) |
|
Determining grist by direct measurement |
|
|
|
Grist and the metric system |
|
|
|
Determining grist from yarn diameter (wraps per inch) |
|
|
|
Determining grist with a McMorran Yarn Balance |
|
|
|
|
|
101 | (17) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The effects of different amounts of twist |
|
|
|
Counting twist with tracer fibers |
|
|
|
Determining twist in a fresh single by self-plying |
|
|
|
The limitations of the self-ply method |
|
|
|
Determining twist amounts by untwisting |
|
|
|
|
|
|
How much twist is enough? |
|
|
|
|
|
118 | (5) |
|
|
|
123 | (3) |
|
Accurate measurements and some physical properties of the Big Four Fibers: In which we look at how fibers stretch when measured, figure moisture content and regain, and learn a bit more about the Big Four's physical properties and cultural requirements |
|
|
126 | (13) |
|
Accuracy and length measurements |
|
|
129 | (3) |
|
Accuracy and weight measurements |
|
|
132 | (4) |
|
Some physical properties and growing requirements of the Big Four fibers |
|
|
136 | (3) |
|
Sinkage and Shrinkage: A discourse of fiber and other stuff that comes with it, on fiber preparations (with particular attention to wool and flax), on the loss and gain of time, on various types of combing, and on the value of productivity |
|
|
139 | (35) |
|
Figuring wool's moisture content |
|
|
139 | (3) |
|
Figuring wool's clean yield |
|
|
142 | (1) |
|
The value of scouring and carding |
|
|
143 | (2) |
|
The cost of doing it yourself |
|
|
145 | (2) |
|
Raw of commercially prepared fiber? |
|
|
147 | (2) |
|
Contaminants and chemical damage |
|
|
149 | (2) |
|
An overview of types of wool combing |
|
|
151 | (16) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Spinning semi-worsted yarn |
|
|
|
|
|
167 | (5) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
How fast can a person spin? |
|
|
172 | (2) |
|
Spinners' tools and savvy: Types of distaves, spindles and wheels; hiring out fiber preparations; issues with storage and criters; making rope from leftovers; and disassembling yarn |
|
|
174 | (34) |
|
|
|
174 | (2) |
|
Refining your spindle skills |
|
|
176 | (5) |
|
Princes Twinkle versus the Egypitans |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
181 | (12) |
|
What kind of wheel is it? |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Using the classification information |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hiring out your fiber preparation |
|
|
193 | (3) |
|
Storage, and contending with critters |
|
|
196 | (3) |
|
Moths and carpet beetles: How they work |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Setting twist and storing yarn |
|
|
199 | (2) |
|
|
|
201 | (1) |
|
The luxury of handspun rope |
|
|
202 | (4) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
206 | (2) |
|
Wheel Mechanics: In which are disclosed an astrounding number of things, some of which will make you a faster spinner |
|
|
208 | (34) |
|
Continuous and discontinuous spinning devices |
|
|
209 | (1) |
|
The flyer-and-bobbin assembly |
|
|
210 | (26) |
|
Single-drive, bobbin-lead wheels |
|
|
|
Single-drive, flyer-lead wheels |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Double-drive wheel adjustments |
|
|
|
Solving a double-drive equation by operating the wheel as single-drive, flyer-lead |
|
|
|
Changes in twist amounts during winding-off |
|
|
|
Additional notes on flyer-and-bobbin wheels |
|
|
|
|
|
236 | (6) |
|
The purposeful yarn: Projects and calculations and yarn for all reasons |
|
|
242 | (21) |
|
|
|
243 | (1) |
|
The relationship between the yarn and the textile technique |
|
|
244 | (4) |
|
General considerations for all yarns |
|
|
248 | (1) |
|
|
|
249 | (5) |
|
|
|
254 | (9) |
|
Yarn handling and processing from bobbin to hank: In which we learn to manage skeins with speed and accuracy while remaining personally unsnarled |
|
|
263 | (21) |
|
Equipment for winding skeins |
|
|
264 | (2) |
|
Equipment for unwinding skeins |
|
|
266 | (5) |
|
|
|
271 | (6) |
|
|
|
277 | (7) |
|
Plying: An introduction to a high-level skill often taken for granted |
|
|
284 | (48) |
|
|
|
285 | (3) |
|
Simple, complex, and the matter of strength |
|
|
288 | (2) |
|
Twist: S and Z, up and down |
|
|
290 | (1) |
|
The four great principles of plying |
|
|
291 | (6) |
|
|
|
|
Second principle: Distance |
|
|
|
Third principle: Ply from re-wound bobbins |
|
|
|
Digression on yarn packages |
|
|
|
Fourth principle: Constant motion |
|
|
|
|
|
297 | (9) |
|
Jerk-it and tromp-and-hope plying |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Imperfect yarns, improved yarns, and novelty yarns |
|
|
306 | (4) |
|
|
|
310 | (22) |
|
Approaching the ``ideal'' plied yarn |
|
|
|
A filtration with novelty yarns |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
332 | (37) |
|
|
|
333 | (2) |
|
|
|
335 | (2) |
|
Nøstepinne or winding stick (ball winder) |
|
|
337 | (2) |
|
Hooked stick (twisty-stick) and crochet hook |
|
|
339 | (2) |
|
|
|
341 | (3) |
|
|
|
344 | (2) |
|
Drop spindles: low-and high-whorl |
|
|
346 | (2) |
|
|
|
348 | (1) |
|
|
|
349 | (1) |
|
|
|
350 | (1) |
|
Simple combs, ripples, and hackles |
|
|
351 | (7) |
|
Distaves: hand-held, belt, and freestanding |
|
|
358 | (4) |
|
|
|
362 | (1) |
|
|
|
363 | (5) |
|
Additional comments on building equipment |
|
|
368 | (1) |
|
Noils Linters, and throms: Recipes, Tips, Charts, Calculations, and Miscellanea |
|
|
369 | (35) |
|
|
|
369 | (8) |
|
Carding-and-spinning oil emulsion |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Saxon blue, oleum, or acid indigo |
|
|
|
Rob Gunter's soap quench, or super-quench |
|
|
|
|
|
|
The art of the drive-band |
|
|
377 | (6) |
|
|
|
|
Double-drive drive-bands: ``Why are they saying those terrible things about my drive-band crossing?'' |
|
|
|
How to put on a plain old drive-band |
|
|
|
Factors and calculations: yarns and fabrics |
|
|
383 | (6) |
|
|
|
|
A method for estimating yarn grist from the thread count of a plain-weave cloth |
|
|
|
A method for estimating yarn grist from the thickness of a textile |
|
|
|
Conversion table, wraps-to-grist |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Maximum yarn capacities for common bobbin sizes |
|
|
|
Standard yarn capacity of various spindle copps |
|
|
|
How to calculate requirements for making ropes and cords |
|
|
|
Calculating drive ratios and take-up |
|
|
389 | (9) |
|
How to calculate single-drive ratios |
|
|
|
How to calculate double-drive, bobbin-lead ratios |
|
|
|
Differential rotational speed (DRS) |
|
|
|
|
|
398 | (6) |
|
Punis, and how to make them |
|
|
|
A short discussion of fine spinning |
|
|
|
Real homemade ginger beer |
|
|
|
|
|
| An Idiosyncratic Glossary |
|
404 | (70) |
| An Opinionated, Annotated Bibliography |
|
474 | |
Las personas que visitaron este libro, también visitaron los siguientes libros.
que aparece a la derecha.